This follows his late-in-life attempt to learn how to surf, and like all his writing, it's filled with vivid scenes, emotional honesty, and a deep connection to the natural world. This was my first non-fiction read of his, and while the surfing technical bits didn’t totally hold my attention, the overall journey was worth it. What lingered most was the environmental backdrop. Even then, things looked bleak, and reading it now feels even heavier. Not my favorite Heller, but still a good ride.